In today’s interview, the FemalExperts community can look forward to a very special role model, as we spoke to Jen Martens – Founder & Managing Director of ŌMAKA. Jen founded the first black-owned female business for curly and afro hair care products in the DACH region and is an absolute pioneer in this field.
1 Dear Jen, thank you for introducing yourself to the FemalExperts community. I’d like to start with an open question to give you the space to take us all on a little journey through your life: Would you like to tell us something about yourself and your life so far?
With pleasure! Let’s start simple: I’m Jen Martens, Black founder and mother of two. I founded ŌMAKA Naturkosmetik in 2019, out of my parental leave and my own needs, and in this context I launched the first solid shampoo for curls and afro hair on the German-speaking market.
Like many other Black women of my generation, I have been straightening my hair with chemicals since childhood. Afro hair was considered unkempt and did not correspond to the Western ideal of beauty. So I adapted and damaged my curls for years – because I simply didn’t know how to care for them properly.
In 2011, I started to deal with my own hair. I became aware of the hair movement in France, England and the USA. Suddenly I saw so many people who were proud of their Afro hair. I documented my impressions and learnings over time in my blog Frolicious.
When I suffered a painful scalp burn in 2013, I decided to stop chemical straightening and let my curls grow out. However, as I couldn’t find any care products that met my requirements, I took my grandmother from Ghana as an example and made my own hair care products in my kitchen.
I distributed these among friends and acquaintances, who kept asking for them. That’s when I came up with the idea of founding my own hair care brand, launched ŌMAKA Naturkosmetik in 2019 and brought the first solid shampoo for curls and afro hair to the German-speaking market.
Over the past four years, I have launched other natural, vegan and solid hair care products for all curl types. I am part of a strong community, share my knowledge as a speaker and use this platform to advocate for more diversity (in the haircare industry).
2. In 2011, you started your “hair journey” for the first time by looking into the structure, requirements and products that are crucial for Afro hair care. How did your path ultimately develop from the documentation on your blog to founding your own beauty e-commerce business in the sustainable impact sector?
The very first time I thought of starting a business was when a friend asked about my homemade products. I had put together the formulas myself and only distributed the care products to my circle of friends and acquaintances without any entrepreneurial thoughts.
In the beginning, I was “only” interested in having hair care products for my Afro curls that also met my wishes and requirements. I didn’t want to earn money with it, I wanted to look after my hair properly – without having to spend huge sums of money on foreign products.
When I became pregnant, I asked myself how I wanted to care for my child’s hair and what values I wanted to pass on. There were still no sustainable products on the market for curls and afro hair that I wanted to use to care for my children’s hair.
So the desire to close this gap grew in me. I then took the step of founding my own company out of my own need. I wanted to develop an Afro hair care product for my children that they could easily get at the nearest drugstore without any major compromises.
3. you describe your brand ŌMAKA as a tribute to your home country Ghana and your own family history. Would you like to explain this point in more detail?
My home may be Hamburg, but my roots are in Ghana. I also lived there for a few years as a child with my grandmother. Her stamina and perseverance had a huge impact on me as a child. She had ten children, which was not easy at the time – and certainly not today – and she lovingly looked after every single one of them. “On the side”, she worked at the market selling pepper.
My grandmother introduced me to the wonderful world of medicinal plants and showed me which plants could help me with which things. I remember her spending many hours making elaborate formulas for skin and hair care.
Unfortunately, she is no longer alive, but she lives on through ŌMAKA. Because she inspired me to do what I do today: sharing the treasures of nature with other people to make them feel beautiful and cared for – and always with a touch of Africa.
Thanks to her, I know that we should take much more time for ourselves and our needs in everyday life. My products from ŌMAKA reflect exactly that and are therefore a tribute to my home country, culture and nature in Ghana.
4. many people convey their self-image through their hair. For you, however, there was another component in addition to specialized hair care, because with ŌMAKA you have created a sustainable hair line that is vegan, natural, certified, dermatologically tested and made in Germany. To what extent were these indicators particularly important to you and were there any particular challenges to overcome?
With ŌMAKA, I wanted to build a sustainable company that never loses its footing and is geared towards the needs of its customers. The aim is to create hair care products that make all people with curly hair and afro hair happy.
For me, this also means that our hair care should be as close to nature as possible. For centuries, people have cared for their hair with plant-based products – so why shouldn’t we “modern” people do the same?
The fact that I manufacture my products plastic-free and locally in Germany also plays a role, so as not to further pollute the environment. Environmental protection is so important for us and the future of our planet. We only have this one, for which we are responsible! So we have to look after them too.
5. you not only sell your products, but also widely share your knowledge about curl care and afro hair care with your community. Where do you think there is the greatest need for knowledge here? What are perhaps common questions that you encounter in this context?
As there are so many types of hair and curls, the questions vary depending on the problems, requirements and needs that need to be explored and known. But I have picked out the four most important ones:
- How does straight hair differ from curly hair? – The core lies in the hair structure. Afro hair has a tight spiral pattern, a thicker hair shaft diameter and a thinner cuticle layer. Although it is more resistant to damage and hair breakage, it is more susceptible to heat damage, chemical treatments and environmental influences. These structural differences are the reason why a completely different approach to care and styling is required for curls and afro hair.
- This brings us to question number two: What are the dos and don’ts for curls? – It is important to avoid heat and to avoid aggressive ingredients, sulphates etc. when caring for your hair. It is better to use products with natural ingredients that also suit your own hair type. The porosity of the curls (low, normal, high) is also important here in order to determine the right hair care in the first place.
- Follow-up question: What is porosity and how can I determine it? – The porosity of the hair indicates the extent to which the hair scales protrude from the hair cuticle and determines the position of the cuticle layer in relation to the hair cuticle. It is either open (high porosity) or closed (low porosity). Whereby an open cuticle indicates that the hair cuticle is no longer protected.
For me, realizing the porosity of my hair was the key in my haircare journey. It was only through her that I realized what care products curls and afro hair need, which is why I also developed two solid conditioners for curls and afro hair for ŌMAKA. - However, every curl journey always starts with the question: How do I find out my curl type? – According to Andre Walker (a well-known US hairstylist), there are four hair types, each of which is assigned certain characteristic features that include all hair textures from straight to very curly. The system is organized according to a numerical order from 1 to 4 and then according to an A-B-C suffix, which takes into account the degree of waviness, general appearance and volume.
I have also set up an online hair care guide with ŌMAKA in which I answer all these questions in detail. Because some questions and problems are simply too complex to be answered briefly in an interview.
6. you published the following description about yourself as part of the Female Leader Award: “I am a black mother with African roots and have launched the first sustainable solid shampoo for afro hair & curly hair ‘Made in Germany’.” I always admire it when someone bootstraps their own business, i.e. finances it themselves. You also have the particularity of having two small children who also demand your attention. To what extent do you see your position as a “mompreneur” as an advantage here?
I see my role as a “mompreneur” as a kind of superpower. It is an incredible challenge, but also an indescribable source of inspiration. There is this balance that I want to master every day – between the responsibility of running a sustainable business while being a loving and supportive mother to my children.
My children are my drive and my motivation. They are part of my journey as an entrepreneur. Their influence has helped me to see the bigger picture, the importance of sustainability and the need for diversity in the world they will grow up in.
As a “mompreneur”, I have learned how important it is to get organized and set priorities. It’s not just about building a business, it’s about creating a future where my children can be proud of what I do. It is a journey that shows me how valuable passion and duties are when they work together.
7. is there perhaps a tip that you would like to share with other (aspiring) mompreneurs that you would have liked to have received yourself in advance?
In any case! But some things you have to experience and live through yourself in order to learn from them. My biggest challenge was finding the balance between my role as a mother and building up the company. I founded the company while heavily pregnant and with a two-and-a-half-year-old child. Flexibility and adaptability are key words here.
I also quickly learned that I don’t have to prove anything to anyone. It is perfectly okay to ask for help and to accept it gratefully. Handing over tasks and exchanging ideas with other self-employed people also help to avoid losing yourself in this duality of mother and founder.
So build a strong network and make contact with other (mothers and) entrepreneurs. Exchange experiences, learn from each other and support each other. No one has to go it alone.
8 I discovered you not only in the context of your business, but also because we have one topic in particular in common: Diversity. As a diversity trainer, I am always delighted to meet like-minded people in this field, because in terms of business, I realize that here and there, because of my name or my Polish origin, I can expect cautious reactions, even to the point of being asked whether I speak German. As an entrepreneur with a migrant background, do you also notice differences in the business context when it comes to contracts or business negotiations, for example?
Yes, it is. From the very beginning, I had the feeling that I had to perfect my pronunciation and pay particular attention to my appearance.
Unfortunately, I’ve often been told in retail that I should sell my products in stores that offer products for people with African roots.
That’s why I still sometimes send my white man to approach business owners and introduce ŌMAKA. I often have a better chance of getting an appointment for an interview.
9. with FemalExperts Consulting, we see ourselves as active allies in the field of diversity, but we know that we are always both teachers and learners. What would you say: What “blind spots” should we look at more closely in future in the area of diversity or with regard to Black History Month?
I completely share your perspective on diversity and the importance of fully recognizing Black History Month.
However, many valuable aspects within the Black community are often overlooked. As the focus is only on a few areas in this short time. Yet it is so incredibly important to recognize and honor the diversity, contributions and achievements of Black people in all facets – be it in science, art, history or society.
Therefore, it is simply important to integrate a comprehensive education about these contributions of Black people – be it to society, history of oppression, resistance or recognizing their achievements. We should not limit this to a single month, but anchor it continuously in the curricula and educational institutions.
In addition, we should create platforms that give Black people a voice and visibility on an ongoing basis, not just once a year. We must actively promote diversity in companies and organizations and integrate it into all areas of society. We need to create open spaces where we can talk about racism and structural challenges without fear of condemnation or ignorance.
It is a constant journey of learning and understanding. Ultimately, it’s about continuously learning and increasing our efforts for diversity and inclusion to create a world where every voice is heard and valued. This shared path of growth is truly significant.
10 I was quite impressed to see that the topic of “female empowerment” is not only important to you in the context of product development, but also beyond that. To what extent does your commitment to children and women from Ghana find its way into your business?
At the moment, I’m not as involved in this area as I would like to be. But my wish is to create jobs in Ghana in the long term and to manufacture and sell my products there too.
My products are not just a business for me, but an affair of the heart – a kind of homage to my roots. The idea of creating jobs and supporting local production is an essential part of my vision for ŌMAKA natural cosmetics.
It would be a great way to support the local economy, promote talent and skills in Ghana. I am full of motivation and inspiration to follow this path in the future.
11. what products are currently in ŌMAKA’s portfolio and where would you like to develop your company in the coming years?
ŌMAKA Natural Cosmetics currently carries:
- A solid shampoo for cleansing with BIO broccoli seed oil,
- A 2in1 conditioner,
- Two solid conditioners – one for high & one for low porosity,
- An organic argan oil for the care of skin, hair & nails,
- An aloe vera spray for moisturizing care,
- The shampoo soap for flaky scalps with organic rosemary, organic nettles and lavender and the hair soap without fragrances with organic shea butter for children & adults will soon become shower soaps.
I recently launched a shaving soap. I am also aiming to place more of my products in stationary retail outlets next year. I am always on the lookout for partners and new listings.
12. is there a personal wish that you would like to fulfill in the coming years or a topic that you would like to tackle?
I have a few goals and wishes that I want to realize in the next few years. This includes building a great company that I would have liked to work for myself. The focus is clearly on my team and the people who work with and for me. Together with me, they are the driving force behind my company.
What’s more, next year will be characterized by growth – both personal and entrepreneurial. I am looking forward to what is yet to come.
Dear Jen, thank you very much for your impressive and inspiring answers. ŌMAKA is not just a product for more beautiful curls or afro hair, it is a message that the BIPoC (= Black, Indigenous, People of Color) community should become more effective and visible on all stages and in all areas of life, so that their needs are given more consideration. Our world needs more changes of perspective, more diversity and more products that reflect the reality of our lives. Thank you for taking on this incredible journey to inspire and support everyone in their well-being through your Love Brand.
Jen Martens’ profiles
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ŌMAKA on Instagram
ŌMAKA website
About the author
Kinga Bartczak advises, coaches and writes on female empowerment, new work culture, organizational development, systemic coaching and personal branding. She is also the managing director of UnternehmerRebellen GmbH and publisher of the FemalExperts magazine .
